This is a look at the last 100 years of womens fashion and how it's changed over the years.....
If you have looked at a Cosmopolitan Magazine or have watched famous movie stars prance around in the latest styles, you would know that women’s fashion has changed a lot over the last 100 years. Whether it’s a whole new look or visiting old fashioned favorites, women’s fashion has made a brutal impact around the world. Designers and fashion experts have created and critiqued the good, the bad, and the god awful that graced such stars as Madonna, Jackie Kennedy Onassis, and even First Lady Michelle Obama. Here are some of the styles that have begun, changed, evolved, and or have made a huge comeback over the last 100 years.
1900’s through1920’s:
Fashionable women during the first decade of the 20th century needed morning dresses, afternoon dresses, simple dresses that didn’t fit in a specific occasion, and evening dresses. This was due to social gatherings in which women needed different dresses to fit each occasion. The second decade of the early 1900's brought rich and exotic patterns and fabrics, skirt lines began to skim well above the ankle. This had prepared the most fashionable women for the radical changes that were about to occur during the roaring twenties.
Known as the beginnings of modern fashion, the 1920's liberated women from constricting fashion such as shorter pleated skirts, gathers, and even slits to give women some motion that eventually ruled the fashion trends of the future. This lead into such trends as the flapper dresses, low cut necklines, and lingerie were more sought after than their corset, below the ankle style skirts, and the conservative dresses that were worn for centuries before.
1930’s through 1950’s:
The Great Depression of the late 1920's throughout the 1930's influenced women’s fashion of that era. Thrift was the rage and more women were taking their old clothes and making them into new ones. The more sophisticated Garbo look was in with a more flowing hemline at the hips and natural hemlines were in style. The nylon stockings became a new trend during the late 30's right after the time they were created.
The 19040's had two separate styles that women wore. This look involved padded shoulders and knee length skirts. Sportswear had become more popular then and gave women a sense of diversity in their wardrobe. Clothing was made simpler and women began wearing more pants due to World War II. In the late 40's Christian Dior had pioneered the New Look which consisted of a nipped waist, longer lengths, and fuller skirts. This created a more drastic feminine look that would move into the 1950's.
During the age of the baby boomers, the 1950’s brought poodle skirts and the glamorous outfit’s worm by screen legends such as Grace Kelly, Marilyn Monroe, and Liz Taylor. The Europeans worked hard to bring glamorous, more feminine fabrics and cuts to women all over the world. The emphasis of a narrow waist became popular by designing a pencil and full skirts for women to wear during this decade.
1960’s through 1980’s:
Women’s fashion of the 1960’s dramatically changed due to the sexual revolution. The mod look became popular during the early 60’s with shorter hems above the knee and fabrics that are more fitted against the body. Geometrical shapes and patterns were the rage with women’s fashion. By the late 60’s and the Woodstock era, many of those who were against the Vietnam war and into the attitude of free love sported such things as tie dye clothing, bell bottoms, looser shirts, and more flowing hemlines. The look of the late 60’s stayed on until the mid to late 70’s when the disco era became popular.
The 1970's started out with the hippie look that continued on from the late 1960's. Bell bottoms and hip huggers were still popular. Skirts called maxis or ankle length skirts were popular for a brief moment. Miniskirts were the most popular during this decade and very short shorts called hot pants. By the mid 70's glam rockers such as David Bowie and Roxy Music were the pioneers of glam fashion. Glitter and high waisted pants made of various fabrics became the in thing during those years. By the late 70's the disco era and new wave became popular and would move through the 1980's fashion scene.
There were many trends during the 1980's that ranged from the disco era early into the decade to the gothic and preppy look during the late 80's. Madonna was considered a fashion icon and several young girls and women were following her trend of Tule skirts and lingerie with leather gloves and lots of jewellery. Shows such as Dynasty and Dallas influenced women in the way they dress to show off their wealth. Lycra was big during this time and skin tight jeans with loose ripped sweatshirts and leggings. The 80's hair band and hip hop look crossed over from the late 1980's into the early 90's in women's fashion.
1990’s through today:
Seattle Washington became the fashion and music scene with the grunge look during the early 1990’s. This consists of ripped up pants, Dr Martens or combat boots, and flannel shirts. As time went on, the revival of the looks from the 60’s and 70’s made a comeback known as the Alternative look. Hip Hop was also a popular style where women wore tighter clothes to accentuate their curves. Women’s fashion became a free for all during this era, which would lead into the next millennium.
Today’s fashion during the second millennium consists of many different eras of fashion. Women now dress in what they are most comfortable in, whether it’s wearing clothing of the 70’s or making a revival of styles of the 40’s and 50’s. Many fashion designers are evolving several of the styles of the past that flatter women of all shapes and sizes. Many high school girls are wearing bell bottoms and hip huggers with a hint of glamour from the 40’s and 50’s. Our style shows off our individuality and there isn’t one set fashion that you need to follow.
Women’s fashion has begun anew and has evolved over the last decade. Whether you are looking forward to buying Gucci or purchasing an outfit at Target, the latest trends are freer spirited than ever. Back then, there was one set style and the world followed the trend to look as beautiful as possible in what we wore. Women of this era believe that being in style is how we view as being fashionable, and in the evolving world of today’s fashion, our personalities and individuality has begun to shine.
Fashion is more prevalent in modern society than in primitive tribes or peasant communities. The modern society is an open society where class distinctions are not so rigid as in primitive society. Its urban and mobile class structure enables people to cultivate individual taste and adopt new course. The modern society is more tolerant of differences and therefore places few shackles on the cycle of fashion. Our standards of judgment have also changed. Today the individual is rated more by observable externalities than by his ancestry, his character or his genuine accomplishments. The clothes a man wears, the language he speaks, the manners he shows have more weight in ascribing a status than his simplicity, patriotism and integrity.
If he can keep himself upto date in the matters of his dress, speech and manners, he will assure himself a high social esteem. Not only the mobile and urban character of modern society but its affluence also speaks for greater prevalence of fashion in it. Men today are richer than their ancestors and have more leisure. They have the necessary means and time to play with luxuries and to think of fashion. Maclver writes: We do not think of fashion in overalls; there is more of fashion in the body of an automobile than in its chassis. There is no fashion in steam shovels. Consequently the higher the standard of living the more material there is for fashion to operate upon.
Although prehistoric clothing didn't hold much style it did exist and became the beginning of fashion. The main purpose of prehistoric dress was to ward off insects, protect the body from the environment, and for warmth. There is evidence that a coarse type of fabric was woven. Apparel was merely squares of textiles fastened across the shoulders and at the waist.
The Egyptian style was also simple but held a great deal more beauty than earlier clothing. Most Egyptian clothing was merely wrapped and tied. The main article for men, although clothing was unisex, was the schenti, a wrapped loin cloth. Women wore kalasiris, long clinging skirts that started underneath the breast and went to the ankle. The Egyptians added beauty to their clothes with bright dyes and jewels. Their main fabric was sheer, woven flax (linen); flax was the principal crop along the Nile.
The Minoans lived around the same time as the Egyptians but had a completely different style of dress. The Minoans were one of the earliest cultures to show a more complex design of clothing. Waists were bound with wide belts that topped tiered skirts, flounced in rings . The bodices were cut so low that the breasts were completely exposed. Minoans used linen, wool, or blends of the two. They also used embroidarie techniques.
The Greek chiton (key-ton) was simply two rectangular pieces of fabric that were fastened at the shoulder with fibulae. Fibulae were the first safety pins. They were made from precious metal and often decorated with jewels. The chiton was usually belted at the waist, left one shoulder exposed, or the side hung open (see chiton picture). The Greeks took apart imported silk thread by thread and re- wove it into an even more beautiful material. They used the colors white, scarlet, purple, mustard yellow, indigo, and bright green.
Designer Mariano Fortuny, born 1871 and died 1949, designed dresses using the same style as the Greek chiton.
Today when one of Fortuny's designs surfaces at an auction, they start at $5,000. This shows the impact of past fashions on today's society.
Roman fashion resembles the Greek partly because Greece fell to Rome. Women wore a stola, almost identical to the chiton, which was belted at the waist and attached with fibulae. Men wore the toga, a large semi-circle made of wool. The toga was 18 feet long and 5 1/2 feet wide at its widest part. It was worn draped and wrapped with the right arm free. The right arm was the fighting arm. The folds hung in place with weights and each fold had a name. The toga identified the wearer by how it was draped. The toga was also a sign of Roman citizenship, and being stripped of it meant losing all of one's rights.
The Byzantine is one of the more unique styles of B.C. times. The Byzantines were of eastern origin and resembled the Japanese and Chinese. Their garments resembled coats. They wore straight tunics belted at the waist with scarves, and the sleeves extended to the wrists. Both men and women of the Byzantine culture wore pants under their tunics. Until this time, pants were considered to be for barbarians. The use of rich, heavy textiles was common, even their silks were thick.
The Roman Empire fell to barbarians around the 5th century. It wasn't until Charlemagne tried to bring back power equal to that of the Roman Empire that we see fashion escalate in changes. This period is known as the Barbarism and Carolingian. Charlemagne lived in a colder climate, and although he was royalty he preferred peasants' clothing; he often wrapped himself in sheep hides. Because of the cold temperatures, both rich and poor dressed in wool. Both men and women wore tunics. Underneath their tunics men wore leg coverings, while the women wore long sleeved dresses.
These early Christian people laced and tied much of their clothing. It is also believed that the beginnings of chain mail were in the Carolingian period.
The Middle Ages is also referred to as the Gothic Age. One of the most worn garments to this time, by both men and women, was the bliaut. The bliaut was a sleeveless pull-over that laced up the sides. The women wore bliauts over tight bodices, and the men wore theirs as armor coverings. In this period, sleeves were much wider, and capes, veils, chin straps, and head coverings were often worn. The styles of the late 1960's closely resemble the Gothic Age with the exception- of seams instead of laced and tied garments.
By the High Renaissance period, the time of the Eli2abethan Age and of Shakespeare, patterns were being experimented with and styles were changing. The waist was finally accented by boned bodices, the hips flared out, necklines dropped low, and sleeves were padded in sections all the the way down the arm. The Spanish originated farthingale was created at this time. The farthingale was thought to have been worn to hide pregnancies. Another garment that looked like a sleeveless robe was worn over dresses and formed almost a hunchback appearance because of farthingale width at the hips.
The Cavaliers, living in the 17th century, wore breeches, mid-thigh length capes, and wide-brimmed hats. This look is closely associated with the "Three Musketeers". Lace was also very popular at this time. Men wore wide lace collars, lace cuffs, and lace boot cuffs. Women also wore wide lace collars on dresses with softer looks to them than those of the High Renaissance.
The Cavalier styles were taken over by the wardrobe of King Louis XIV of France. King Louis was said to have adored fashion and was always superbly dressed. He would often change several times a day as well as ordering his court to do so. He demanded that his mistresses dress exquisitely and be adorned in jewels. Louis gave birth to petticoat breeches, his favorite style of men's wear. Petticoat breeches were
like a full skirt that was separated in between the legs. He added ruffles and ribbons to create a more elaborate look.
After Louis XIV, Louis XV set the beginning fashions of the 18th century at a softer look. Women's dresses sported the sacque look. The sacque style had tight sleeves to the elbow that were attached by large ruffled cuffs. A cape looking garment was attached to the back of the neck and hung to the ground like a train. Panniers could first be seen in the 18th century. Panniers were made of whalebone or cane and were a hoop worn around the waist to extend the hip area of the dress.
By the time of the 19th century, due to the over-emphasized width of panniers, the hoop style took over. The hoop was a much softer look. Men's pants extended to their ankles. Tails and overcoats were also born into men's fashion at this time.
Women's fashion, at the beginning of the 20th century, lost boned bodices and hoop skirts. Women's apparel became softer and loose. Dresses resembled light robes and spaghetti strap night gowns. Waist lines were either dropped or accented with wide sashes. The most notable change is the death of layers upon layers of under garments. Almost all of women's fashions from the 1910's to the 1940's were only one or two piece garments. World War I brought uniforms to nurses and postwomen. Munition workers and tram conductors wore trousers and overalls.
"Coco" Chanel's styles were first exposed in the 1920's. She was famous for her colorless jackets, sweaters, pleated skirts, long shirts, and elaborate dresses. She inspired designers like Christian Dior, who became a "fashion god" in the late 1940's.
Throughout the 10's and 20's, clothing accented slenderness. Fashions gave a peasant looking style. Many shirt designs had off-the-shoulder sleeves. The cloche, a hat that looked like an upside-down flower pot, could be seen everywhere. Women wore their hair very short and wavy.
The 30's brought a fancier look of dresses. The waist was tighter in all designs, unlike the potato sack look of the earlier decades. Most dresses had thin straps and were wrapped around the body elegantly.
Daily dress for women usually consisted of a button-up jacket, a dress shirt, and a straight knee length skirt. It was not unusual for women to wear pants at this time. Aside from wearing pants in factories, women wore them with dress shirts daily (Howell 126-170).
In the 40's fabric shortages, due to World War II, gave way to a coarse rewoven woolen fabric. Only several colors of the material were used to cut down on waste-age. The solution to this was the Utility dress. Several designs could be bought in twelve different colors to avoid plainness. After the war, men could be seen in double-breasted suit coats and straight leg suit pants (Cawethorne 40-44, 98-99).
In 1947, Dior's designs were dubbed "the New Look" and were adored by women around the world. Dior's designs included petticoats, tight bodices, "wasp waists", and soft shoulders (shoulder pads had dominated the early 40's). With the war over and the fabric available to make Dior's creations, he just kept designing. From the time that the "New Look" came out until his death in 1957, these ten years came to be known as "the Dior Revolution" (Cawethome 106-167).
International Fashion Editor Cynthia Durcanin
What is fashion?
Fashion is a state of mind. A spirit, an extension of one's self. Fashion talks, it can be an understated whisper, a high-energy scream or an all knowing wink and a smile. Most of all fashion is about being comfortable with yourself, translating self-esteem into a personal style.
Why is it important?
Fashion is a means of self-expression that allows people to try on many roles in life. Whether you prefer hip-hop or Chanel-chic, fashion accommodates the chameleon in all of us. It's a way of celebrating the diversity and variety of the world in which we live. Fashion is about change which is necessary to keep life interesting. It's also a mirror of sorts on society. It's a way of measuring a mood that can be useful in many aspects, culturally, socially even psychologically. At the same time, fashion shouldn't be taken too seriously or you lose the fun of it.
How do you know what will be hot in the future?
The collections in Paris, New York and Milan, and now London, typically set the stage for the industry one year in advance. Though, I think the street is the real barometer of style. More and more designers are drawing their inspiration from life on the street. So once again, there is a link to personal style and fashion. A teenager can throw something together without thinking about it and it can trigger a new trend.
How do you choose what to wear in the morning?
The project
8.1.5 PROJECT ACTIVITY RECORD
Name: Humaira Begum 11y
Project Title:
Use the form below to help you record the activities that you undertake and the decisions that you make throughout the course of your project.
|
Date |
Activities Undertake |
Decisions Made |
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03/11/10 |
Deciding on what I will do for my project |
Yes |
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28/02/11 |
Setting budget |
Yes |
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Researching on other types of materials |
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28/02/11 |
Reviewing other peoples work similar to my work |
Yes |
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18/03/11 |
Looking at a fashion show for secondary research |
Yes |
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26/03/11 |
Buying threads, needle, thimble |
Yes |
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Asking for permission to use the school mannequin |
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Collecting recycled materials |
Yes |
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13/01/11 |
Finding out about the history of clothing/ fashion for secondary research |
Yes |
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02/02/11 |
Making a survey on Monkey Survey to find out what the audience think about my ideas for primary research |
Yes |
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Writing up health & safety issues |
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Production timetable |
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Interviewing someone from the industry for primary research |
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The project
8.1.3 PROJECT ACTIVITIES
Name: Humaira Begum
Below is a list of some of the key activities that you will need to carry out to complete your project. Consider each one in turn and write down what this will mean for your project and how long you think it will take. Completing this worksheet should help you with Section 4 of your Project Proposal Form
Activity | How I will do this for my project | How long will I need |
Generating Ideas | Thinking of ideas and drawing up designs - January 1st-15th 2011 | |
Action Planning | ||
Research | ||
Pre-Production | ||
Production | Creating my recycled dress | March-April 21nd 2011 |
Post-production | Displaying my work and asking for feedback about what people think of my project work. | April 21nd 2011 |
Evaluation | What I think about my work and the improvement that I could take to develop the recycled dress. | April 21st 2011 |
Communication |
What I have done | Evaluation |
Week 1 I decided on my project and I planned my project in detail. | Week 1 I thought of different ideas for my project but I wanted to do my project on design and the visual arts industry. I also thought of the title of my project but it is a working title because I’m not sure if I’m going to use it. |
Week 2 I decided on the equipment and the budgeting for my project. | Week 2 I thought that I would need to have one mannequin because I am going to make one basic thing out of recycled materials. |
Week 3 I done the plan of the whole project of the dress I will be making. | Week 3 I had many ideas and then I chose one of them and I wrote all the little details that I will need. I also made a storyboard that shows when and how I will design the dress. |
Week 4 I decided on my strength and weaknesses. | Week 4 The strengths I have come up with is creativity, different ideas and recycled items can be found everywhere. My weaknesses I will have are that I need more training in design, how useable the materials are, managing my time. |
